Відео

You’re welcome and thanks for leaving a comment I appreciate it and I’ll be sure to tighten the chain too lol

You’re welcome and I’m glad it’s fixed..

I am glad you got your scooter working and as you can tell, I take a lot of time to make sure to get all the details and everything a person needs to be successful in the repair

Everybody always describes the same thing, soapy water, but not how much to use.

You’re welcome I just want to make something quick and easy to watch

​@@pcofranc Epoxy sets and becomes hard Aren't there alternative such as polyurethane that remains soft/rubbery

You’re welcome and thanks for the tip. What happens in editing? I try to keep things compact and sometimes I make a mistake when I’m stating something and then fix it after the editor but then it makes it jumpy.

Gotcha. Thank you for the video. I just replaced my belt yesterday. I had to drill two holes into the back side so I could get leverage on the belt. I do have a question, my fan is damaged, any thoughts on where to get one? Thanks again@@pcofranc

You’re right and I actually did that with a motorcycle that I had years ago I just leaned it against a wall. I forgot what a mess it made running down the center stand. that scooter belongs to my friend and she hasn’t been driving it and I told her I put a lot of work into it she better use it more and I will probably be doing some kind of tuneup on it again in a few months

@@pcofranc yeah, back then I’ve tried the center stand method as well, and a bit traumatized by the mess it made 😳 the Italians engineering is a bit funky, so a funky method is needed to overcome this oil change problem 🫠🫠

Thank you

What happened is I cut the zipties and tried to twist each hose but they were "stuck" eventually I got mad and pulled a hose off and it ripped and then I saw the screws and then I saw they could could not be unscrewed! Got make a video about this ; -)

I can't find a carburetor that has it. Where can I buy the right carburetor

@@user-qu2jd8ty6z the first thing to realize is this is not like most generic scooters that range from 50 cc to 150 cc those are basically using a generic carburetor from the factory. The only one that will fit the scooter is an OEM carburetor and you’ll have to order that from Kimco and it’s not cheap. It’s around $250 a friend of mine that had continuous problems with his scooter ordered one directly from Kymco and it’s solved all the problems and worked perfectly when it comes to using a generic carburetor you’re gonna have to modify the airbox and it’s not easy because there’s not that much room under the seat. I think you would have to use a plastic or metal extension tube and then mount a filter on the end of that.

Sorry, I don’t think I completely understood your question but I think I do now. Most generic carburetors use a single throttle connection and that’s all that’s needed. That will pull the carburetor open and the spring will cause it to close but this style many motorcycles use two cables. When you twist, the throttle one cable causes it to open up, and when you twist, the throttle shot, the second cable forces the carburetor to close so in the event that the spring didn’t work, you would be able to twist the throttle in the opposite direction and force it to close, generic carburetors don’t do this. They just rely on the spring to close the carburetor.

I would absolutely remove the final drive to inspect and clean the existing grease and replace that with 60% Molly grease and take pictures that you could show to a future buyer to prove that it’s in good condition. Even though the miles are low there’s a danger if cheap Greece was used or it wasn’t done properly and it’s not worth taking a chance and remember you don’t have to do the clutch blinds because they never wear out even if they’re completely dry. It’s only the final drive that’s in danger. Unfortunately it takes less than an hour and a half to remove it clean it and grease it and put it back on.

@@pcofranc Paul, BIG THANK YOU for your reply. I inherited the bike from a friend who passed away who had over a million miles logged on motorcycles. I’m trying to learn all I can about it. It is in showroom condition and runs / rides excellent. I’ll hopefully keep it for the rest of my life. I really appreciate your help. Al McCallie Cody, WY

I guess using a drain snake is too controversial for some people, but glad you enjoyed the video

Do you need to get as much slack as possible so if you go to the other side of the bike near your right foot or the clutch is, you can loosen the tension there and even disconnect that because it’s easier now go back to the handlebar and you should have plenty of slack

Thank youuu

I’m so glad to hear that in the Magnus a good motorcycle, do you know it’s kind of tricky the way the whole thing works with the switch and everything mine has stayed working good for about the past 15,000 miles or so

Thanks for that wonderful feedback what a great feeling to break the gun down and clean it properly and realize it can last for years more with proper care also using the silicone grease really helps the parts move smoothly and resist paint build-up.

That's really good that you've gotten so many miles and memories out of that vehicle. I know the feeling of barely passing.

I've been doing smogs for 15 years and Cherokees with the 4.0 are the cleanest burning vehicles out there, even when they run like crap somehow they still burn clean.

@@shootthemoon9549 I'm in Ca they have the strictest emissions tests, I do everything I can make sure no vacuum leaks fuel vapor leaks everything and it still barely passes.

It's been awhile but I believe it takes one quart of 5W40 when the oil filter is also changed.

I don't think that I have that cable online since I have manual transmission I would have to take a look

@@pcofranc Thank you very much for the quick replay. The film (and it is the only one I found on YT) where that object (I mean black box w/cable coming out of it and going to the area of console and ends w/white bushing) can be seen is: ua-cam.com/video/4XJscUVv_q8/v-deo.html It starts fm ~1:27 (the author also concerns about total removal of the box), then it can be seen at @2:05 and @3:15 again. Thank you again for the attention to my question. Update: I have Shop Manual for that car and found fm one description there that the black box might be roll connector (I don't know what it does exactly). They say: On 2001 model remove roll connector by carefully disengaging plastic retainer tabs w/small flat ... All that is in Steering Wheel location. In another place they say: On vehicles w/automatic transaxles, connect park lock cable to ignition module (shown housing for the ignition lock cylinder).

Sometimes designs change a little For Better or For Worse but you got it done just by wedging something in front

You're welcome and by the way my string trimmer is still going strong. I gave up on auto-feed and just unlock the spool pull a little string and lock it back down

@@pcofranc you saved me so much more time man. Thanks.

There is a lot of Mythology around oil the reality is any ordinary full synthetic oil should be just fine and even though my clutch is about seventy-five or eighty percent Warren and in fact that's how I got it from the previous owner there's been no slipping issues at all

Also congratulations on your purchase of the 2014 nc700x right now I met almost 47000 miles and everything's running great

@@pcofranc Thanks, that's great to hear. Mine has 9,200 miles and the last owner didn't keep records or remember last oil change so just changed it with Honda GN4, but I wanna make the switch to synthetic.

How long did it last before it needed to be replaced and would you say you used it a lot or just occasional use and maybe it was just the passage of time that wears the belt out?

@@pcofranc I used it maybe 6 times. I had bought it new and it sat on the shelf in my storage unit. I went to use it,running fine then it surged a couple times and fried the belt. I replaced the belt ,now it works great. I bought the last one harbor freight had. they were discontinued. Now a company called STARK makes them now. It's the same thing, different paint job and more expensive.

@@edkiggans1626 Thanks for the info arbor freight Seems to have the lowest prices I feel like the belt is just way too tight. I think maybe a little longer belt more distance between the police and a more normal tenswould be better the belt on my tablespoon. I think it's the same one when I bought it used 13 years ago. And it's never had a problem

@@pcofranc the belt is supposed to be that tight. You cannot put a bigger belt on it, you will burn the belt up.

It's been a long time since I owned that bike but I feel like something isn't assembled correctly Like maybe the drive shaft wasn't pushed in all the way Or something wasn't tightened or maybe something that isn't supposed to be loosened was loosened without Retitening it. Do you have the vibration in neutral? And if you pull the clutch in does it stop this will help you to narrow down where the issue is And also if it's vibrating while you're driving and you pull the clutch in and coast and gear what the clutch end does it stop?

Don't worry too much about it I just re-watched the unedited video clips where I have more information on what I did it's a paper gasket in my case part of it ripped all I did is put a little RTV silicone just the normal gasket sealer you get at the autostore over the paper to help seal it up but it's not super critical it's not like a head gasket on a car

You're welcome it's a real relief when the repair is complete and things are working good.

@@pcofranc Totally 💯

Sorry for that! Skip to 6:40 or watch this guys video: ua-cam.com/video/liIrSA67ULI/v-deo.html - It took me like 20 minutes to get the belt on the pulley then I was afraid to take it off and do it a second time for the video that's why I don't have it in the video.

@@pcofranc I got enough information from your video to figure out that it was just strong, arming it into place. We got the thing fixed and put back together. I now understand why most people just buy another one.

@@MadBeausuff at 6:40 I put that part from the other guys video. Overall it's designed to be a throwaway. I've never has so much trouble putting a belt on! Glad you got your compressor working ... should work fine for years.

There's a shortcut that you might want to think about. Reseal the oil pan with epoxy and fiberglass tape the kind used for drywall. I've done it and it will last for many years the main difficulty is getting as much oil out of the pan as possible it will still see a lot but what can happen is you end up with a very small drip because some oil Works its way through the epoxy as it's setting. A trick you can use is remove a quart of oil then and a quart of paint thinner or kerosene or something like that start the motor and let it idle for a few minutes but don't drive it or put it under any load. Drain the oil put the plug back in and now pour a little bit of paint thinner or kerosene using a small funnel through the dipstick hole. To further than the oil down. You can also heat the panel little bit with a heat gun in the repair area also check UA-cam as I'm sure there's a lot of additional tricks. Also consider changing the two front struts complete with a new coil to stop the car from bottoming out

You're very welcome and I'm so glad it helped it's a very stressful situation to find yourself in. My Saturn is still on the road and shifter cable working good.

When I took it in for smog earlier this year the place that have been testing it for years refused to test it saying that it wasn't right for my car and I had to prove it I went to another shop and the guy looked at the El number and it was so rusted he couldn't really read it so I actually got him to the car while he had it jacked up took a picture brought my paperwork in and showed him the numbers on the paperwork and he accepted it

What city are you in?

@@pcofranc Well I'm south gate but I've took the car 3 smog shops one in LA one 2 in Bell... None checked the converter.. even the last guy who was really picky had much newer machines and kept referencing data about my car on his computer even looked at it..

Not true, have you been to other countries where they cut the cats oof their diesel trucks?

@@cmaccarter93 Give me the proof of what you are implying so we can debate.

Let me know how it works out and what kind of drain were you cleaning? A main line or something intermediate?

@@pcofranc main line. Started working on it at 10 pm I did that one and my laundry room floor drain. I pulled out a lot of roots, rocks and dirt and black sludge. The condition improved but unfortunately I still have the problem. I finished up around 1 am once nothing was coming out. I think I need to call a professional I have a very long driveway. I think I need the 100 footer but not sure I can fit down my crawl space.

@@ramirezmanuel117 Any Updates? I like to know if you or someone else fix your drain problem?

@@anthonywatson5778 it let me push the problem off for a couple months but ultimately no. I have a very long yard. I was able to root out up to about feet but from there I had to 7600 to dig up 6 feet and install a clean out line and they jetted and rooted.

David thanks for the update I appreciate it and please update on how that battery performs I bought another battery called x - longer from Amazon and I'm going to have another go at this this time my phone is helping me as the screen started to lift because I think the aftermarket battery I put in about a year ago is swelling so I thought well this will make getting the screen off easier the other key is at the top and bottom the bezels you have to go in almost an inch on the top and bottom with the pulling pic because if you don't cut that away that's one of the causes of using excessive pressure the other thing is if you look at Apple they actually have like a plastic skirt around the screen assembly and that makes it much less likely to break also many phones now put the battery under the back side so the only reason that you would be removing the screen in most cases is to replace it because it's already cracked unfortunately the pixel puts it under the screen.